"So you found your perfect pair of boots .... ?"

If fits your plans, they feel like a pair of slippers (well you hope they will after they are broken in), and it was in your budget.

Congratulations!

If you take care of those boots you can get years, possibly decades out of them.  One of our editors has a pair that are 6 years old and still going! Without that ugly smell!

Here are some tips on getting long life out of your boots:

Waterproof them as soon as you get home.

If your boots are made from leather, use an oil based product to waterproof them.  Stay away from waxes or silicones that can clog the pours and shorten the life of the boot.  Make sure to pay close attention to the welts at the mid-sole and to get a good amount of waterproofing material in those seams.  If your boots are synthetic, use a silicone based waterproof product.  Not only will oil based not work well, it can actually damage your synthetic boot.  Again, pay close attention to the welt seams at the mid-sole.  If your boot is a composite of both synthetic and natural materials, follow the manufacturers instructions.
 

Break your boots in before going hiking in them.

Wear them around the house, when going to the store, for a few days at work, any opportunity where you can soften up the sole and get the material to stretch a little to the shape of your foot.  Don't get caught on a trail in a new pair of boots that haven't been broken in.  There is not a set time period or distance for a break in of new boots, listen to your feet.  If you have gone for an extended period of time, or walked for more than ten miles and your boots are still uncomfortable, you may have to rethink your purchase.
 

Keep them clean.

When you buy your boots not only should you walk out of the store with waterproofing material, but you should also leave with an appropriate cleaner.  There are a number of products on the market today that will work on either synthetic or natural materials.  Start by banging your boots together to get the largest amount of dirt out of the lugs.  Then, take a stiff nylon brush and brush the boots to get the dirt off.  If your boots are still dirty, get a damp cloth and wipe the dirt away, be careful not to soak the leather.  If you are removing volcanic dust, use a vacuum and stay away from water.  Once you have cleaned them up follow the directions on your selected boot cleaner.  After cleaning your boots, you should waterproof them again.  Wait until they are fully dried from cleaning before repeating that process.
 

Never heat dry wet boots.

If you get your boots wet, don't place them by a fire or heater to speed up drying them off.  It only damages the material, effects the fit, and if you get your boots to close to the heat source, can melt the cement holding the sole to the upper.  Let them natural air dry in a warm dry place.  If you get a mildew smell, you can use foot powder or baking soda to get the smell out.  Once dry, give them a thorough cleaning and re-waterproof them according to the directions with the boot.
 

Don't store your boots for an extended period of time.

If you live in a cold climate, or only hike when you travel, don't let your boots sit unused for a long period of time.  Wear them periodically to keep them stretched out and comfortable.  Use them to run errands or around work if you get up and down.  By doing this you will keep the soles soft and the uppers comfortable for your feet.
 

Don't walk around with them unlaced.

This is a sure temptation when you reach your campsite, especially if you have been hiking for a long distance and you didn't bring camp shoes.  Walking around with your boots unlaced causes unnecessary wear on the inner linings and will shred your laces.  Invest in a pair of sandals, camp booties, or throw a lightweight pair of old tennis shoes in your pack for letting your feet relax.

Care instructions for special shoes

Cordovan shoes (real shell cordovan, made from horse hide, not just shoes that are burgundy color) need some special care. Neutral cream or paste polish tends to leave a white film on Cordovan leather. Alden recommends using cordovan color paste wax polish, and not shoe cream. Also beware that the shell cordovan creases are usually lighter, not darker, in color.

Cordovan leather is vegetable tanned instead of the modern method of "chrome" tanning. Since cordovan leather already contains a large amount of oil/wax, the polishing requirements are different from calfskin.

Use a damp soft cloth for cleaning shell cordovan shoes. 

The most common mistake in shining cordovan shoes is using too much polish. The excess polish creates a layer of build-up, which has three negative effects: 

1.  it covers the natural beauty of the leather,
2.  it creates a grainy texture in the creases of the shoes,
3.  and the build-up of polish scuffs easily and attracts dust. 

To avoid these effects, use only the thinnest film of polish when polishing your cordovan shoes. Just a very small amount, spread very thin over the shoe, is all that is needed to restore the color and luster. You should not have to polish your cordovan shoes frequently, and often all that is needed is to brush and cloth them in order to remove scuffs and restore the shine. 

After the polish is applied, let it dry, then brush it off with a horsehair brush. Next, wipe the final film of polish away with a soft buffing cloth.

Here are the "don'ts" of shell cordovan care

1. Do not use "neutral" polish
2. Do not clean cordovan shoes using saddle soap
3. Do not attempt to clean cordovan shoes using petroleum distillates or cleaning fluids
4. Do not use any spray shines or aerosol type waterproofs
5. Do not attempt to dry wet shell cordovan shoes with heat or a heater. Wipe them dry, and allow them to dry naturally
6. Do not attempt to polish shell cordovan shoes while wet

Contact with water can sometimes cause cordovan leather to form small raised areas called "welts" (tiny bumps). This is normal, and the welts will recede once the shoes are allowed to dry. Wipe the shoes dry as soon as convenient, and allow them to dry naturally.

Spewing, a natural milky residue of wax will often form on new shell cordovan shoes. This is a normal residue from the tanning of the leather. Wipe it off with a soft cloth or brushing. To remove the wax in difficult areas, such as between stitches, use a toothbrush.

Exotic skins can be treated like calfskin, or with special conditioners that keep the leather from cracking. Take extra care when brushing to prevent scratching the surface.

Fabric shoes can be cleaned with a mild spray fabric cleaner. Let the cleaner dry to a powder and brush off the residue with a stiff brush. You can also use Woolite. 

Suede can be cleaned with a clean soft brush (like a toothbrush), or you can buy special erasers (suede bars) to remove stains and dirt. Raise the nap on suede by applying steam from a steam iron from about 10 inches away. Also special brass-bristle brushes are available to raise the nap after cleaning. A protective non-silicone finish (like Scotchgard) sprayed on new suede shoes will help repel water and stains. 

Nubuck – (brushed leather similar to suede, but with a finer nap) treat the shoes with water repellent, use rubber-bristle brush (not nylon) or a suede bar. Use the bar damp to clean and condition, and use the brush to lift the nap 

Patent leather can be cleaned with a damp cloth using lukewarm water and plain soap or Windex. Shine with a smooth soft cloth. Don’t get any of the fabric wet (like the ribbon bow). 

Other Conditions 
Wet shoes. If your shoes get wet, stuff them with terrycloth or paper towels, and let them dry away from direct heat at room temperature. Don’t polish your shoes while they are still wet. 

Salt on shoes – Damaging white salt marks should be rinsed off immediately with a 50/50 mixture of white distilled vinegar and water. Wipe dry, and follow the directions for wet shoes.

Squeaky Shoes: the shoe’s soles may be breaking down due to the rubber or synthetic material, try replacing the soles preferably with leather. Or the shank, which is made of steel, is loose or defective. Some companies make their shanks out of leather. This is an easy replacement for your shoe repairperson. Or the easiest the tongue may be rubbing where the shoes are laced – just apply saddle soap to reduce the friction. 

Scuffmarks on shoes can be treated in an emergency with a small amount of toothpaste on a damp rag, and then wiped. 

To keep shoelaces tied, try a light spritz of water on the laces after you’ve tied them, or pull the laces out and rub them lightly with a candle or paraffin wax to help them stick better to each other. Flat or waxed shoe laces stay tied better than round and unwaxed laces. 

Moisture protection — Mink oil will waterproof and preserve leather, but it can darken lighter shades of leathers. A water and stain protective spray for leather, provides water protection, and doesn’t alter the color. You can use the protective spray inside the shoes also.

Air Cup
Honeycomb suspension system built into the soles of Allegro™ shoes for women. The system combines good ventilation with an anti-fatigue effect.

Ankle Protector
Used in J-Escape™ models, the TPU "Ankle Protector" reinforcement protects the ankles from lateral shocks.

Anti-torsion system
Positioned under the arch, it optimises foot stability when walking.

AP23™ leather
Totally natural full grain leather that is oil - and water - repellent. It is 10% to 15% thicker than most leathers used for safety footwear (2.4 mm). Its capacity to prevent water vapour from penetrating is three times greater than the regulations in the EN 344 standard (180 mn / 60 mn). Extremely long lasting with unsurpassed performance.

Aseptane™
Aseptane™ is ideal for wet working conditions, protecting your feet against spilled and splashed liquids. Key features: impermeable and breathable, slip resistant and abrasion resistant, and very easy to clean with soap and water up to 60°C!

Backstrap
Part of the upper covering the seam and the back of the quarters.

Bellows
Triangular-shaped flaps on either side of the shoe between the vamp and the quarters that keep the shoe water-tight when closed.

Biotane™
This totally natural, 100% organic leather eliminates any risks of allergies. It features exceptional breathability, and therefore evacuates water vapour 10 to 20 times more efficiently than the requirements in the EN 344 standard. It is exceptionally supple, light and comfortable, facilitates air exchanges and keeps your feet feeling great.

Cambrelle
Built into the shoe, the Cambrelle lining has a high humidity absorption/desorption capacity in order to keep the foot dry throughout the day.

Closing
All the stitching operations required to assemble the different parts of the upper, using one or more threads to make a series of stitches.

Derby
Shoe or boot whose quarters are assembled on the vamp in such a way that their font part (nose of the quarter) remain free, making the shoe easier to put on and only attached to the instep by tightening the laces.

Dynam'Air™
This ventilation system, used in certain models in Jallatte's Allegro™ range (EN 347), is built into the shoe and works by creating a flow of air around the foot, which is continuously refreshed by the natural walking movement.

Fit
All the properties of a shape or shoe that enable the foot to be correctly and comfortably positioned held in place when walking.

FleXtane™
A composite material used to manufacture the puncture-resistant Ballistic fibre midsole. 70% lighter than a steel midsole. Providing insulation against heat and cold, it reduces the changes in temperature within footwear. Extremely long lasting and non-magnetic.

Forepart
All the parts (including the lining) that make up the front part of the shoe starting from the vamp.

Full Grain Leather
Leather where the upper layer of the derma, the grain, is completely conserved. A natural leather that does not require buffing to remove faults.

Grain Leather
Leather whose surface, the grain, contains faults, and therefore requires buffing. This operation rubs out the faults. The grain is then stamped back on.

Heavy duty boot
Walking or working boot whose upper uses a minimum number of assembled parts in order to provide maximum water resistance.

Heel Stiffener
Reinforcement of the upper, inserted between the outer leather and the lining, intended to avoid any sagging of the upper and to maintain the heel in place.

Insole
Inside part of the bottom of the shoe covered by the insole lining (or sock lining).

Insole lining
Placed over the insole to improve the appearance of the inside of the shoe (sock lining - heel pad).

Isoltane™
Isoltane™ is a multi-layer insulating complex, situated under the sole of the foot. It acts as a heat dissipating thermal barrier that regulates the rise in temperature inside the shoe. This prevents the thermal shock effect that can occur when working on hot surfaces, for example laying roads at 160°C The user's health and well-being are preserved.

J-Escape™
A rugged look so you'll feel at ease in even the most hostile environments.
The Ankle Protector provides reinforced ankle protection.
The reinforced TPU shields at the front and back make the footwear longer lasting.
The Neotril™ sole is resistant to hydrocarbons and direct contact heat up to 300°C.
The multi-directional, self-cleaning tread pattern provides maximum adherence.

Lasting
Provisionally fixing the upper onto the last (the name for the mould round which the shoe is formed).

Leather
The term leather is reserved only for the upper layer of the derma of the hide, characterised by the presence of the grain.

Lightane™
Record-breaking lightweight properties for this new collection featuring 100% composite safety.
A 200 Joule Xetane™ safety toecap (50% lighter than steel).
A puncture-resistant FleXtane™ Ballistic fibre midsole (70% lighter than steel).
Featuring 3A Concept: Adherence - Anti-torsion - A progressive shock Absorber.

Loafer
Type of shoe with no laces or other opening/closing system except that the upper stretches tight across the top of the foot to hold it firmly in place (the name "loafer" suggest that this type of shoe will appeal to lazy people since there is no need to bend down to put it on).

Neotril™
Vulcanised nitrile rubber sole material with excellent resistance against heat and chemical products.

Outlast
Outlast is the name for a thermo-regulating lining that maintains a constant temperature inside the shoe.

Outside Counter
Part of the back of the quarter of the upper (either a separate piece, whether real or simulated, or simply an area of the shoe) surrounding the heel of the foot.

Press cutting
Using a press knife to cut out the parts for the sole.

Progressive Heel Shock Absorber
It is located in the heel area of Softane™, J-Escape™ and Lightane™ soles.
Its role, together with the Softane™ comfort layer, is to cushion your feet from the high intensity shocks and vibrations.

Quarter
Top part of the upper, one of the two parts (inside or outside) that make up the front of the upper, usually extending up to the instep.

Relaxane™
An anti-vibration disc located under the heel reinforces the vibration and heel shock absorption capacities. It reduces fatigue from standing in the same place for prolonged periods of time and walking on hard surfaces.

Seat
Shoe Seat: back part of the shoe which supports the heel of the foot.
Heel Seat: flat, approximately semi-circular area at the intersection between the heel cup and the sides of the heel.

Shank
Elongated piece of wood, leather, steel or plastic placed across the width of the sole intended to reinforce the waist of the shoe and support the arch.

Softane™
For the new 2003 versions, the dynamic qualities of the dual density Softane™ soles have been yet further improved. The comfort layer wraps around your feet more snugly for improved side support. The walking sole tread pattern channels away liquids more effectively and guarantees maximum contact with the walking surface.

Sole Edge
The side of the sole, its outline.

Stretch
Describes leather that can be stretched. Stretching implies that the new shape is at least partially conserved when the stretching force is no longer applied. (Not to be confused with elasticity).

Suede Split
When leather is split into two layers, two different materials are obtained:
- the top layer with the grain
- the lower layer of the derma, which is called the suede split
Both sides of the suede split are soft and velvety in appearance.

Sympatex
The Sympatex membrane is made of a special hydrophilic polyester with a non-porous and homogenous structure. The membrane is both watertight and permeable to water vapour, and therefore fully breathable.
Extremely extensible (300%), supple and resistant, it follows the natural movements of your feet.
It remains highly breathable with no change in its properties with age. Sympatex is neutral for the skin, and forms a barrier against bacteria and viruses.

Texon Soft
Texon Soft is used for insoles and is made of pure alpha-cellulose fibres. It has the following characteristics: breathability, high water-vapour absorption and desorption, chemical purity, flexibility, dimensional stability, abrasion resistance, lightweight, antistatic.

Tongue
Part of the upper, or piece of leather or other material added to the upper, extending backwards from the vamp and protecting the instep.

Tonics™
You don't have to wait for the weekend to feel good in your shoes! Tonics™ were designed for women who want to be as comfortable in their professional lives as in their daily lives. The obvious difference with Tonics™ is in their appeal but they are also extremely lightweight thanks to their Xetane™ composite toecap. Not to mention how comfortable they are...

Triftane™
Record-breaking safety, comfort and style for this multifunctional outsole that continues to set new standards. With phenomenal slip resistance combined with its extreme versatility, high heel shock absorption capacity, and complete thermal insulation Triftane™ is unrivalled.
It has more qualities than you can name. The industry standard!

Upper
Top part of the shoe, covering the top of the foot.

Vamp
Part of the upper covering the back of the foot.

Africa
Botswana . Egypt . Ghana . Kenya . Morocco . Namibia . South Africa . Tanzania . Tunisia . Zimbabwe

Asia
Bhutan . Cambodia . China . India . Indonesia . Israel . Japan . Jordan . Laos . Malaysia . Mongolia . Nepal . Singapore . Sri Lanka . Syria . Thailand . Uzbekistan . Vietnam

Europe
Austria . Belgium . Bulgaria . Croatia . Czech Republic . Denmark . England . Estonia . Finland . France . Germany . Greece . Hungary . Ireland . Italy . Latvia . Luxembourg . Malta . Monaco . Netherlands . Northern Ireland . Norway . Poland . Portugal . Russia . Scotland . Slovenia . Spain . Sweden . Switzerland . Turkey . Wales

North America
Bahamas . Belize . Canada . Costa Rica . Dominican Republic . Jamaica . Mexico . Panama . USA

Oceania
Australia . Fiji . New Zealand . Samoa . Tokelau

South America
Argentina . Bolivia . Brazil . Chile . Ecuador . Peru